Rav FAQ (Owner)

The Following links will jump you to the relevant spot on this page. Scrolling through the page will allow you to read all info.

Please note that this page exists because of the invaluable input from so many knowledgeable drivers. I am just collecting the knowledge and storing it here for everybody's benefit. If you have something to add/subtract/correct, please don't hesitate to me at: info at evnut dot com.

Batteries and charging.

Tires/Wheels/Brakes.

About the vehicle (Misc?).

Toyota service and warranty.

How To...

Q: What do the LEDs on the Tal charger indicate?
A: The single white LED indicates that charging is taking place, no matter the SOC. If no green LEDs are lit, then the SOC of the vehicle is between zero and 24%. When the first green LED lights, the SOC is at 25%. The second green LED indicates 50%, the third green LED indicates 75% and the fourth green LED will light when 95% SOC has been reached. If all four green LEDs are lit and the white indicator has extinguished, then charging completed after 100% SOC was reached. I have heard from several drivers who assume that they are "empty" when no green LEDs light when they first plug in. In fact, the pack could be at 24% SOC without that first green LED being lit. Note: Both the analog SOC gage on the dash and Rav4INFO are active when the vehicle is being charged. Use one or the other if higher resolution of the SOC is required.)

Q: What happens during charging with a TAL charger?
A: (Thanks to Jim Hannigan with modifications from others)

Q: What are the symptoms of a bad input capacitor?
A: Less than 30 seconds after inserting paddle into the charge port, the TAL charger will show the ERR light (red LED), and the Gen II or Gen 2+ will show the error "E1" on the charger's display. More info on the input capacitor is found here.

Q: Tell me about battery temps, input voltage, power and current during charging.
A: 208V (typically one leg of 3-phase commercial power) will send about 5.0 kW to the batteries, and 240V (residential) will send about 5.6 kW. In a typical charge cycle from near empty, you will see the current slowly ramp up to about 17A to begin the charge. The current will fall off as the pack fills, and just before the pack is full, you will see about 15A. The current tapers off because the charging algorithm is keyed to constant power. If the average battery temperature is over about 100° F, a 208V source may only let your charger deliver 13.5-13.7A or a lot less than 4KW (this is due to the power being bled off to run the battery fans on high). If the batteries are over about 120° F, the charging will be delayed while the fans (using shore power) come on to bring the battery temps down. Long wire runs to the charger (10-3 extension cords, anybody?) will lower the voltage available to the charger and will slow the rate of charge.

Q: Does leaving the paddle in the charge port cause the AUX battery to run down?
A: No, not that we can determine. The perceived danger of running down the 12V battery while connected to the charger seems to come from two sources:

  1. Leaving an interior light on. Interior lights can be left on by leaving a door ajar or from switching the light fixtures manually (unless you prevent this electronically).
  2. Leaving the key on. This will consume 12V also. You can't start the car with the key while the charger is connected, and you can't start charging with the key on, but you can go into accessory mode after you've started charging. The battery icon lights, to tell you that you are discharging the 12V battery. Even if no accessories (such as the radio) are actually on, a fair amount of 12V power is being consumed. Some relays are closed, and some electronics may be on as well. This will eventually drain the 12V battery.

To date, the tales of the 12V battery discharging while the car was sitting connected to a charger have been tracked back to one of the above two circumstances. As the Aux battery ages, we're sure to see more "won't start" situations. The factory battery is barely up to the job - even Toyota admits this.

What battery will work for the AUX?
A: The official, higher-capacity replacement battery is Toyota PN 00544-35060-550, a Truestart battery. Others have found batteries at Sears, Costco - anywhere that batteries are sold. Nothing special about the battery - it just has to fit, and the posts have to be in the proper orientation, same as for the 1996-2000 gasoline version of the Rav4. One specific option for about $60 is Duralast 35-DL from AutoZone.

Q: How much energy does the battery pack hold?
A: About 26 kWh

From http://www.fueleconomy.gov (EPA):

Q: How much current does this thing draw/generate?
A: Rough (and variable) measurements:

Real World driving:

The DC-DC converter is capable of about 1200W. Should be enough to support 1000WAC load if using an inverter off the 12V battery with the car in READY mode.

Q: How do I reset my SOC meter and force the pack to level?
A: For unknown reasons, the internal SOC meter in the Rav can sometimes get confused and show up to 35% SOC on the gages (analog and Rav4INFO) while in reality, the pack is completely discharged! In this instance, you are not warned with the charge light, the turtle or anything. No reduced performance, just a complete vehicle shut down. Power cycling will get it going again, but not for long! To reset the meter, and rebalance the pack, the car needs to be charged to 100%, left to self discharge at least overnight, and have the process repeated for at least three cycles (better to go five or more if possible).... all without driving the vehicle in between cycles. After doing this, it is best to drive the car down to under 5% SOC to be sure you have your full range again before you NEED it.

Q: What Toyota parts/accessories will fit my 2002 or 2003 Rav4EV?
A: Many of the factory accessories from the model year 1996-2000 gas model Rav4 will fit our vehicles. Here are some Toyota parts and accessories that we KNOW will work:

I have also added aftermarket accessories that work well:

Q: Why can't I set Pre-AC or Time Charge to start 30 minutes from now?
A: For unknown reasons, there is a black-out period of 45 minutes from the current time. If you attempt to set Pre-AC or or Time Charge for any time that is within 45 minutes of the current time, the indicators over the relevant buttons on the charge controller (Pre-AC or Time Charge) will not light, and will not function. Nobody has yet found a way to circumvent this "feature" so the only fix is to be sure and set the delay for at least 45 minutes from the present time.

Q: What is the proper tire pressure, and why so high?
A: The official tire pressure is 44psi for all four tires. This is higher than most passenger cars because the Rav4EV uses specialized Low Rolling Resistance (LRR) tires. The higher pressure assures proper performance and life from the tires. I personally run 46-50 psi in my tires. The compact spare (exterior, under the cargo floor) requires 60psi. The tire pressure can only be checked and adjusted by lowering the tire from the cradle (unless you flip the spare, or add a remote tire valve). The pressure in the spare should be checked at least every six months - and I would not count on the scheduled six month service to keep on top of this. My car was delivered to me new with about 30psi in the spare.

Q: What low rolling resistance tires came on the Rav4EV?
A: The Ravs were shipped with one of two different types of tires:

  1. Bridgestone Ecopia EP-02. Wear rating: 360
    (195-80 R16, 739 Revs per mile, 44PSI, 20 lbs, 1609 pounds rated).
  2. Yokohama EF1 (or E102, the latest designation for the same tire). Wear rating: 300.
    Can be purchased at Tire Rack. (These tires went out of production in late 2004, and returned to limited production in 2007. You may want to inquire as to the production date code on the sidewall before ordering).

At one time, the Yokohamas could be found here for an astonishingly low price of $36 (plus $25/tire shipping): Tires-Easy.com. Deal seems to be over now.

In my experience, the Yokohamas wear better and provide better traction. Others have had the opposite experience, so you're pretty much on your own with that choice! Regular (non-LRR) tires of the same size will work just fine, at the expense of some range. Some good info on LRR tires here. Torque for wheel nuts is 76 ft-pounds.

Q: Can I use regular tires on my EV?
A: Yes, though your range will be somewhat reduced. Several Rav4EV owners have begun to use more "standard" tires once the expensive LRR units wear out. I have heard of no downsides to doing this, except for mildly reduced range. Regular tires should be cheaper, provide a more compliant ride, and should wear longer.

Some options reported by Rav4EV drivers:

  1. Bridgestone B420 215/65 R16 (32.25 pounds total mounted on wheel) for about $90/tire (Apparently the B420 is no longer sold and current equivalent Bridgestone tire is the Insignia SE200).
  2. Dunlop Rover AT 215/70 R16 (replacement for the gas Rav of the same year). Range reduction for this tire was noted to be "about 20%."
  3. General Grabber UHP 215/70 R16. Tirerack, just $68 each. Max inflation of 51 psi. Load rated at 1764 lbs. Handling is apparently vastly improved. Owners report that overinflating by 10% returns equal range to stock LRR tires. Info on these tires here (please copy/paste into your browser, as a link won't work): http://www.tirerack.com/tires/surveyresults/surveydisplay.jsp?type=SST *and* http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?shipquote=N&tireMake=General&tireModel=Grabber+UHP&x=18&y=11
  4. General AMERI GS60s, 215/70 R16. Similar Revs per mile, decent load rating, great tread rating, almost twice the useable tread depth. Seem quieter. Rated for 44 psi instead of the 51 of the Grabbers. No loss of range yet noted after 200 miles.
  5. Michelin 4x4 Synchrone 205/80 R16. Reported "little to zero range loss." A bit harsh at 50psi, otherwise, smooth and comfortable. Quieter than factory tires, but slight "whirr" at 25-30mph.
  6. Goodyear Integritys 225/60 R16 (this tire comes from the factory on the 2006-2007 Prius)
  7. Michelin MXV4s 225/60 R16
  8. Continental CrossContact LX 215/70TR-16 (great wet-weather performance, no significant range degredation with 44PSI. Comfortable and quiet).
  9. Avon Ranger TSE
  10. For snow/ice: Nokian Hakkapilletta 5. If there is lots of ice, then get them studded. Available in 215/70R16 (OEM size for gas RAV 2wd) or 225/70R16 (almost identical diameter as OEM size for EV: 195/80R16).

Q: What are the wheel alignment specs?
A: From the 2002 shop manual (pages SA-5 through SA-9):

Front:
Camber: -0°19' ± 45' (-0.32° ± 0.75°)
....LR error: 45' (0.75°) or less
Caster: 1°36' ± 45' (1.60° ± 0.75°)
....LR error: 45' (0.75°) or less
Steering axis inclination: 10°31' ± 45' (10.52° ± 0.75°)
....LR error: 45' (0.75°) or less
Toe-in: A+B -0°04' ± 12' (-0.07° ± 0.2°)
....Toe total: C-D: -0.6mm +/- 2mm (-0.02" ± 0.08") (Distance between front of tires minus distance between rear of tires)

Rear:
Camber -0°50' ± 45' (-0.83° ± 0.75')
....LR error: 45' (0.75°) or less
Toe-in: A+B 0°06' ± 12' (0.1° ± 0.2°)
....Toe total: C-D 1mm ± 2mm (0.04" ± 0.08")

Q: Is my speedometer showing my actual speed?
A: Probably not. Toyota's official stance is that the speedo can read about 9% high, and still be within their tolerance. In my experience, the speedo in all of these cars reads about 4mph high at freeway speeds. An indicated 60mph is actually 56mph. That 4mph difference can make a substantial difference in range. The good news is that it makes it a wee bit easier to drive slower if you THINK you are going faster. Here are the specs from the service manual page SS-21 in MPH.

Actual speed Allowable indication
20 18-24
40 38-44
60 58-66
80 78-88
100 98-110 (higher than speedo reads)

Q: Are there any repair manuals available for the Rav4EV? Where can I get them?
A: Yes, there are official sets of Rav4EV manuals for the various years:

2001

2002

2003

They can be found here: ToyotaWorld (choose Rav4EV - only 2001 manuals listed here as of this writing)

They were once available by calling the Toyota Material Distribution Center in Rancho Dominguez, CA. 800 622-2033. I paid $48 for the Electrical Manual and $92 for the Repair Manual - however several callers have now been informed that the manuals can only be purchased through dealers now. And recently even some dealerships are saying that the manuals are not available to end users.

Another option for the manuals is to visit techinfo.toyota.com and subscribe for 24 hours for $10. Do it on Saturday morning, and you will have two full days to download files. For a fully linked manual, download each file and place it into a folder hierarchy that matches the link itself. You will have to create folders as you go. When you are done, however, you will have pdf's with hotlinks in them that link to other sections of the manual. Don't forget the electrical wiring diagram and the wiring repair manual under the body repair section. TSB's and Campaigns are also of interest. All of this can be had for $10 and a few hours work.

Q: What are the paint codes?
A: This isn't as simple as you would think, and you apparently can't trust the dealership to figure it out!

Q: What maintenance needs to be performed?
A: Toyota wants to see the car every six months. The service visit consists of rotating the tires and checking the OBD2 port for error codes. Eventually some fluids are checked and changed as well. For the first three years of lease/ownership, the six month service is provided at no extra charge (every dealer seems to finally know this, now that we're all coming up to our last service!).

Q: Why does the Rav "shudder" or "cog" at low speeds?
A: All permanent magnet motors want to naturally cog at low rpm. Vehicles like the EV1 used electronics to eliminate the cogging for near-perfect smoothness plus the EV1 does not use a PM motor. Toyota did not bother to attenuate the cogging on the Rav, so you get to feel exactly what the motor wants you to feel.

Q: How do I stop the brake squeal?
Several solutions: Install new Toyota brake pads; install aftermarket brake pads specific to this application; switch to more traditional iron rotors (on the 2002 that came with Al rotors). Adding anti-squeal grease to the back of the pads, will also solve the problem on the cheap. Here is my page on the brake job.

Q: What are the differences between model years 2002, and 2003?
A: Here are the only items that each model year has that the other model year lacks:

Q: What is the Rav4EV lacking (I mean, besides an engine, gas tank, exhaust, pollution, etc)?
A: My opinion only, of course:

Q: How many Rav4EVs have been on the road?
A: Fleet numbers:

retail numbers:

Q: Specs of the Rav4?
A: RAV4-EV:
dimensions: 156.7"long, 66.7" wide, 64.4" high
                  (Volvo 3CC proto: 153.5" long, 64.0" wide, 52.0" high)
                  (EV1: 169.7" long, 69.5" wide, 50.5" high)
weight: Rav4EV (2002) 3440 lbs curb
           GVWR 4316 lbs (4266 lbs for 1998 version of the EV)
           GVAR Front: 2258
           GVAR Rear: 2297
           Max load 825
           (Rav4 gasoline (2000) 2668 lbs curb)
           (Rav4 gasoline (2000) 3946 lbs GVWR)     
motor: 67hp, 50kW peak, 20kW continuous, 190nm (140 ft-pounds) torque
traction battery pack capacity: ~27kwh (more battery data, and traction pack pictures).

Reliability Report (So. Cal Edison)

Q: What is the warranty for the Rav4EV?
A: The basic "bumper-to-bumper" warranty is for 36,000 miles (or 36 months, whichever comes first). The traction battery warranty, the power train warranty, the EV-specific parts warranty, and the restraint systems warranty all last for 60,000 miles (or 60 months, whichever comes first). The rust-through warranty is for 60 months, regardless of mileage.

The EV-specific parts warranty covers the traction motor, motor revolution sensor, motor control inverter, ECU, unit controller fan, accelerator sensors, shift position switch, IG control relay, battery ECU, blower assembly for main battery, battery sensor computer, ground fault detector, system main relay, motor mounts and seals, and the transaxle, transaxle seals, mounts, and gaskets, and the front-wheel drive system -- the final drive housing and all internal parts, axle shafts, constant velocity joints, front hub, bearings, seals and gaskets. (Warranty booklet, page 9.)

The warranty is automatically transferred to subsequent owners. The last warranty will expire on Sept 15, 2008 - five years after the last retail Rav was placed.

Q: What will happen after the warranty expires?
A: Well, we have no idea, really. Toyota is warning us about the high prices of all the components though.

Q: Who should we contact to alert Toyota that we want more EVs and/or PHEVs? (Plug-in Hybrid Electric Vehicles).
Yukitoshi Funo-sama ( yuki_funo@toyota.com)
U.S. Corporate President
Toyota Motor Corporation
P.O. Box 2991
Torrance, CA 90509

Q: Where are the official Rav4EV dealerships?
A: All 25 listed here.

Q: What was the price of these things again?
A: Original purchase price (before incentives): $42,510 plus tax.
Total cost of ownership (before incentives) if purchasing vehicle after three year lease
$23,144.76 + 26,815 = $48,195.76 plus tax.

There was a $9,000 state (ZIP I) incentive (paid $3,000 over three years) and a one-time Federal tax credit of $4,000. For a total of $13,000 of incentive possible over three years for a theoretical net cost of $29,510 + tax on the $42,520 if purchased originally.

Q: Why were the cars eventually sold/leased to individuals in 2002-2003?
A: In late 2001, a Toyota official speaking to a large EVS audience, stated that nobody wanted to buy a Rav4EV no matter how hard Toyota tried to sell the vehicle. Greg Hansen was allowed to make the point that the vehicle had never been available for sale to the public - only as buisiness leases. In March 2002, the first retail cars were being delivered to individuals (for purchase or lease). Though the approximately 300 vehicles built for the retail program were expected to last for 24 months, every car was placed by the end of November 2002, and the program was terminated early. The official reason for ending the program was "lack of demand."

Tips and Tricks

Q: How to get ride of must/moldy AC smell?
A: Spray Lysol or Ozium disinfectant directly into the "recirc air" intake opening located on the blower motor housing (under the dash/glove box on the passenger side). With the air inlet placed on the return air (versus fresh air position) and blower set on MAX speed. The disinfectant will then be directly ducted into and around (at maximum concentration and saturation), the A/C evaporator fins (where all the smelly/offending organic crap lives).  

Q: How do the Heater and AC controls work?
A: Below is the executive summary of the function. Fan on for all situations.

With AC button NOT manually activated:

  1. Warm conditioned air in red zone (no indicator light)
  2. Unconditioned "ambient" air in blue and demist zones (no indicator light)

With AC button manually activated:

  1. cool (dehumidified) conditioned air in blue zone (indicator light on)
  2. warm conditioned air in red zone (indicator light off)
  3. system chooses temperature in demist zone (indicator light on)
    ** Dehumidification only available with AC button on and in cool or demist zone. **

    Note:

    1. Even though the fan switch is on, fan action may be delayed up to a few minutes in the red and demist zones until the system has reached operating temperature.
    2. In the demist zone, with the AC button manually activated, the indicator light may be delayed up to a few minutes until the system has reached operating temperature.
    3. In demist mode, incoming air is first cooled (dehumidified) and then warmed appropriately. Output temp is chosen by the climate control system.
    4. When the slider is all the way to the left (upper registers only) the center dash vents will blow ambient air when the heat is on. All other positions will blow conditioned air out the chosen vents.

Q: How to reset the Low Tire Pressure warning light?
TIRE PRESSURE WARNING SYSTEM INITIALIZATION

In case of having the tires or wheels replaced, be sure to perform the system initialization.
(a) Apply 4 tires with a specified inflation pressure.
(b) Using SST, connect terminals Ts and E1 of the DLC1. (SST 09843-18020)
(The DLC1 is located under the hood. It has a little flap cover that snaps open. Use a piece of wire with hard pins on the end (a paperclip will do!) to jumper Ts to E1. DO NOT SHORT OTHER PINS!)

(c) Turn the motor switch ON and push the tire pressurewarning standardization switch ("SET" switch).
(d) Check that the tire pressure warning light blinks 3 timesand it goes off then.

Q: Know any tricks for maximum range?
A: Yes. Drive downhill and down wind... both ways. But seriously, here are some tips to remember:

* Note: Once you get good at this, you'll be amazed at how relaxing it can be, and how much your driving skills improve. These techniques can also turn a 30mpg ICE into a 40mpg ICE.

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